Tuesday, November 9, 2010

Surviving Mt. Merapi, Jogya

Did you know that Yogyakarta is the most visited city in Indonesia, after Bali? It is located at Central Java which is also the center for Indonesian Higher Education. Indonesia, a vast archipelago of 235 million people, is prone to earthquakes and volcanoes as it sits along the Pacific "Ring of Fire," a horseshoe-shaped string of faults that lines the Pacific Ocean. Of all the volcanoes in Indonesia, Mount Merapi is the most active.

Gunung Merapi (Mountain of Fire) is located about 30 km from Yogyakarta, a city of 400,000 citizens. It is the most active volcano in Indonesia and has erupted regularly since 1548. The volcano last erupted in October 2010. Evacuation zone at a 20 km radius from the crater caused many locals to leave their homes and flee to neighbouring cities. Schools, universities and airports were closed due to poor visibility and the potential health hazards posed by the volcanic eruptions.

The natural disaster has put Jogya in the limelight as it made the world headlines in most major newspaper/TV for the past few weeks. My family and I was staying in a hotel located some 30 km from the mountain. While we were there, Mount Merapi continued to erupt, spewing hot ashes a few km into the sky, blanketing the whole city. It shot clouds of gas and debris up in the air and pyroclastic flows poured down the mountain slopes, killing more than 100 people to-date.

Besides the latest news about the notorious Mount Merapi, most people remember Yogyakarta for its two UNESCO World Heritage sites, the Borobudur and Prambanan temples. Both monuments were built when the ruling dynasties embraced Buddhism and Hinduism respectively in ancient Java.

After touching down at the Adisucipto International Airport, we wasted no time and went to the Borobudur Park. It is situated in the Kedu basin near Magelang city in Central Java. Borobudur is a Buddhist monument which comprises six square platforms topped by three circular platforms, and is decorated with thousands of relief panels and 504 Buddha statues.

The main dome, located at the center of the top platform is surrounded by 72 Buddha statues housed inside perforated stupas. The relief panels on the walls depict interesting stories associated with actions and consequences (good deeds = good karma and vice versa). Today the monument remains one of the most visited in Indonesia and once a year, Buddhists will congregate at Borobudur to celebrate Vesak Day.



After Borobudur, we visited the Prambanan temple. The temple is the largest Hindu temple of ancient Java. The temple was built to honour Shiva (the center temple), flanked by two more temples designated for Brahma and Vishnu. In front of each of this temple, a smaller temple is built to house the vehicle statues for Shiva (nandi – the divine bull), Brahma (angsa – the swan) and Vishnu (garuda - eagle). The reliefs that are found in the Prambanan archaeological park depict the love story of Rama and Sita and interestingly, you may also find relief panels of Kama sutra. At night, you can watch the Ramayana Ballet which showcases the love story with the Prambanan temple as the backdrop.

Yogyakarta is also known for its silver work, pottery, leather puppets used for shadow plays (wayang kulit), and batik. You can witness the locals painstakingly create these beautiful masterpieces which are then sold at affordable prices in the local shops at popular shopping streets such as Malioboro. You can also visit the factories and see these skilled locals at work. Apart from that, you may also visit the Parangritis beach for a leisurely walk or pay a few rupiah for a horse ride along the shoreline.

Food is aplenty in this fertile land. Thus, finding good local food is not difficult, provided you know where to look.

Gudeg is a traditional food from Yogyakarta which is made from young Nangka (jack fruit) boiled for several hours with palm sugar, coconut milk and some spices. Gudeg is usually served with white rice, chicken, hard-boiled egg, tempeh, and sambal. The locals love it but I have to say it is an acquired taste as the dish itself is rather sweet than savoury. Other well-known local dishes include Mee Java, Mee Soto, Bakso, Bebek goreng (duck) and Nasi Goreng. Famous local pastry is the Bakpia (a small round-shaped Indonesian pastry, usually stuffed with mung beans), which you can sample and buy fresh from the factory where they are produced.

Avocado juice (jus alpukat) with a squirt of chocolate syrup and condensed milk is a must try in Jogya. Another sweet dessert that you should not miss is the Ronde. You can find push-cart traders selling ronde by the street for a mere 4000 rupiah per bowl. The ronde seller normally opens after sunset as this drink suits the evening when the temperature cools down.

Ronde is a sweet dessert, particularly popular in Central Java. This dessert may have originated from the Chinese dessert, Tang Yuen. Red ginger is added in the syrup for a stronger taste. Besides the glutinous rice balls filled with peanut paste and the ginger, you may find fruits, square-cut toasted bread and roasted peanuts used in this Javanese version.

There's also the famous sambal that goes with almost anything edible here. There are a variety of sambals with different degrees of heat and sweetness. Warung SS is the place to go for sambal lovers. For the beer drinkers, local production such as Bintang and Anker are popular choices.

If you are a coffee lover, you should try Indonesia’s famed Kopi Luwak. At USD 8 for a sachet that makes only a cup, it is indeed the most expensive coffee in the world. Luwak coffee comes from the Indonesian island of Sumatra, an area well-known for its excellent coffee.

Also native to the area is a small civet-like animal which the locals call Luwak. One of their favourite foods is the red, ripe coffee cherry. Unable to digest the coffee beans, the luwak graciously deposits them on the jungle floor where they are eagerly collected by the locals. The stomach acids and enzymatic actions involved in this unique fermentation process resulted in the rarest coffee beans in the world. Due to the strange method of collection, there isn't much Kopi Luwak produced in the world, hence the outrageous price. Well, I guess you are paying for the 'experience' as it tasted just like any strong coffee to me (anyway, I would not be able to tell the difference if it was arabica beans or otherwise).

Perhaps the fondest memory that stays with me from the trip is the friendliness of the Jogya people. I was surprised by their hospitality and soft-natured demeanor. We detoured to Surabaya by bus (8 hours ride) on the last day to catch our flight back to Kuala Lumpur as the Jogya airport was still closed. With the help of the local guide and friendly people in the bus, we managed to arrive at Surabaya airport on time.

We were also fortunate to be able to visit many places (bright sunny day) but right after we were done (especially the last day), these places were closed to public...phew...close call.

Sunday, September 19, 2010

Much to do at Kuala Selangor

A long weekend during the Malaysia Day holiday recently called for a trip to Kuala Selangor. Kuala Selangor is a little quaint town spanning about 117,844 hectares with many hills which have become landmarks such as Bukit Melawati (also was a fortress back during the British occupation), Bukit Belimbing, Bukit Hospital, Bukit Jeram, Bukit Permatang and Bukit Tanjung Keramat.

According to history, Selangor sprang from the name of the Selangor River and is depicted as one of the oldest kingdoms in Malaya, after Kedah. Most of the early inhabitants of Selangor were seafarers who carved a living as fishermen. Today, you will still find fishing as one of the major source of livelihood among the people of Kuala Selangor, along with agriculture, cattle-farming and tourism. Kuala Selangor was also the capital city of Selangor which was later changed to Klang and now Shah Alam.

You know when you have reached the town of Kuala Selangor when you see a big sign post with the name of the town atop the Bukit Melawati (just like when we see the 'Hollywood' sign in Los Angeles). At the foothill, you can choose to walk up the hill to the lighthouse, or pay RM 2/person for a tractor/train ride that takes you to the Historical Museum (next to the lighthouse). The Museum houses many artifacts that were excavated around Kuala Selangor thousands of years ago .

Many people also love to go up to the hill to feed the friendly silver-leaf monkeys, popular residents of the hill. The tractor ride round the hill also takes you to the Taman Alam Sanctuary Park. You may also have a cup of tea at the Rest House, Bukit Melawati (serene atmosphere although the building is currently in a debilitated state). There are also many fruit-bearing trees at the hilltop that attract interesting birds such as the Lineated Barbet, Coppersmith Barbet and Oriental Pied Hornbills, just to name a few.

Kuala Selangor is indeed a haven for nature lovers. Many local and foreign tourists come to Kuala Selangor to appreciate the flora and fauna that it has to offer. Take a leisure walk at the Taman Alam Sanctuary Park and you will be amazed with the wonders of nature. Families often enjoy bringing their children for a day trip to the nature park, as the trails are simple and moderate in distance. Ticket price is RM 4 for adults and the proceeds go to the conservation of the sanctuary. However, do remember to apply insect repellent before entering the park especially during dawn and dusk to ward off pesky mosquitoes.

A ten-minute walk from the entrance straight into the park will lead you to a small bridge. After crossing the bridge, you will come to a cross road. Going straight will eventually lead you to a large lake. It is best to turn right at the cross road as this will take you round the entire lake. I especially enjoyed the mangrove walk, an elevated concrete walkway built a few feet above the mangrove swamp so people can experience the mangrove ecosystem at its best. The different trees and plants that grow at Taman Alam are marked with signboards that describe them scientifically, making it easier for the lay person to learn more about the flora at the park.
The next most popular activity in the park is bird watching, and this comes as a no-surprise as Taman Alam Kuala Selangor lies along the migratory route for coastal birds, especially raptors (e.g., Brahminy kites, Crested Serpent-Eagle and Oriental Honey Buzzard). Huts, sheds and watch towers have been placed strategically around the wetlands area, especially the largest lake, allowing visitors to quietly observe the Grey and Little Herons and kingfishers (e.g Common, White-throated and Collared kingfishers) going about their daily business. Besides water-dwelling birds, you may also chance upon other species of birds such as the Chestnut-bellied Malkohas, Shrikes, Tailorbirds, Pied fantails, and Woodpeckers.

Kuala Selangor is also famous for its seafood. Every night (especially during the weekends), people from all walks of lives come to Kuala Selangor to have fresh seafood. Many seafood restaurants are situated along the river banks but the one that receives the most visitors is called River View Restaurant. The seafood dishes arrived speedily and tasted really good. Prices are really affordable (averaging about RM 20/person), depending on what you order, of course. After a satisfying meal, we stopped at a shop that sells local produce where people can buy dried shrimps, anchovies and sugar-coated cuttlefish for family and friends back home (RM 10 for packs of three).

Another night activity unique to Kuala Selangor is watching firefly. You can watch these nocturnal insects either at Kampung Kuantan or Bukit Belimbing. Fireflies are also called lightning beetles and as adults, they congregate at "Berembang" trees to feed on their nectar. Each firefly emits light from the tip of their abdomen. Male fireflies emit brighter lights to attract females. Their life cycle is about six to seven months and an attempt to catch them will land you a RM 1000 fine!

Best time to watch fireflies is when the sky is pitch-black (check the Chinese calendar at avoid full moon). During these times, trees along the river bank will naturally light up like Christmas trees! If you decide to watch the fireflies in Kampung Kuantan, be prepared to be chauffeured by the local boats men on skiffs (locals rowing a small sampan). Rental of the skiffs is at RM 40 (RM 10/person) that fits only four people. On the other hand, firefly-watching at Bukit Belimbing is much more commercialised as motorboats are available for this purpose.

All in all, Kuala Selangor is an ideal getaway, especially if you need a short break from the hustle and bustle of the big city.

Saturday, September 4, 2010

Tioman, the dragon island of South China Sea


Locals in wanting of a beach retreat may find Tioman Island to be a hidden gem. Situated in the state of Terengganu, this island is covered by lush tropical jungle. Legend has it that a dragon princess from China, while flying en-route to Singapore to visit her prince, rested in the calm waters of the South China Sea. Awed by the beauty of the area, she discontinued her journey and took the form of an island. Today, many associate the shape of the Tioman Island to a dragon, with the mountainous twin peaks that resemble a dragon's horns and big white boulders that look like the claws of a dragon.

A two-hour ferry ride from the Mersing jetty will take you to the main island (RM 35/person, one way), with a number of jetty stops along the way depending on where you are staying while on the island. Many people choose to stay in Kampung Genting, Salang, Tekek and also Paya. This is my first trip to the island with my husband. We chose to stay at the Paya Beach Resort, located five-minutes on foot from the Paya jetty (RM 330/person for a 3D2N full board package).

Beach retreat is all about sun, sand and sea and Tioman did not disappoint. The hot and sunny weather was great for all sorts of beach activities and the first in anyone's list would be snorkeling. There are many small enterprises offering snorkelling trips in Tioman (RM 50 - RM 100, depending on the number of snorkeling trips and locations). Popular snorkeling locations are Tulai and Renggis Islands as well as the Marine Park. Every visitor needs to pay a RM 5 conservation fee for the Marine Park which will also entitle you to a free entry at the Mersing jetty.

The untouched coral reefs and the clear blue sea beckoned as we sat in our speedboat from Paya jetty to Tulai Island, a.k.a Coral Island. Once under water, a whole new world emerges. The coral reefs are teeming with sea creatures such as sea cucumbers, sea urchins, fishes and shrimps. This beautiful ecosystem is to be cherished and preserved, not just for the tourism industry, but for the next generation of people to experience. For those who wanted to take a breather from all that snorkeling, they can choose to explore the white Long Beach of Tulai Island.

Our local guide then dropped us at the village of Salang, where we had packed lunches and rested for a bit. We also took the opportunity to explore the village on foot. There are a few sundry shops selling essential goods and crafts, including small eateries scattered around the village.

After that, we boarded our speedboat and went to the next stop, the Marine Park. Many local tourists love to buy breads and feed the fishes at the Marine Park. Hence, it is not a surprise to see that the fishes here are larger and friendlier towards people. I did not particularly enjoy the Marine Park as the visibility was poor and there were no coral reefs (just man-made ones).

One last stop was the Renggis Island. It is located a few minutes away from Salang. This is probably the best place for snorkeling. The water here is deeper and there are plenty of fishes to see. The more adventurous would snorkel the circumference of the small island, where there may be a good chance of spotting sharks. Although they do not attack humans, they are still a force to be reckoned with. Tioman Island is also a good place for people to pick up diving and to obtain their PADI cert for open water diving.


Besides snorkeling, nature lovers can try jungle trekking and a good start for novices would be the trail from the Paya Beach Resort to Berjaya Tioman Resort, by following the power lines. The 45-minute trek will take you to a turtle sanctuary called Tat. From the sanctuary, you can choose to walk along the shoreline back to Paya when the tide is low. This is a faster route, often taken by the local villagers. However, you should exercise caution as the terrain can be difficult to walk on without proper shoes. Another trek you could do is the Tekek-Juara trail. The trek runs from Tekek to Juara and takes approximately 2 1/2 hours to complete. This trail is known to be treacherous and thus, it is advised to hire a guide who knows the place well.

Tioman is also a bird-watchers' paradise. There are a few species of birds one could easily spot, namely the common kingfisher, dollarbird, tailorbird, barn swallows, sunbirds and spotted doves.

Birds of prey such as the White-bellied Sea Eagle and Brahminy Kite were also spotted circling the island during noon times, as the rising hot air helps the raptors glide as opposed to flapping their wings which tires them. You can also see the terns, which are common seabirds, flying above the seawater, in search of fishes.

Fishing is a great way to spend your time in Tioman and although I did not have the chance to do any fishing this time, I am contented just by watching the locals fishing by the pier. Anchovies which are caught are best served deep-fried and go very well with cool drinks. The sea breeze that day was wonderful and relieved us of all stresses.

As for shopping, Tioman is a duty-free zone, thus making buying cigarettes and alcohol cheap. Tourists and locals normally purchase these when they were about to leave the island. The schedule for ferry (Blue express) can be unpredictable and frustrating, so better to buffer about one to two hours waiting at the pier for your ticket ride back to Mersing. Bring a book or magazine to read while waiting. In a nutshell, Tioman is a good place to recharge one's batteries before returning home, feeling fresh and positive.



Saturday, June 12, 2010

Exploring Hutan Lipur Sg Congkak

Sungai Congkak Forest Reserve

David brought me there. Located at Hulu Langat, this is a good spot for birding. Too bad, we did not manage to get any good pictures as the weather was not permitting (cloudy throughout the morning, and drizzled the most parts of the afternoon).


Entrance fee is RM 1 per person and they even have camping facilities. For camping facilities, it's about RM10 per tent per night.
There are 6 camp zones and overall very well-maintained. There are rubbish bins everywhere (unlike Templar's Park) and the caretakers of the forest reserve do a good job in ensuring the cleanliness of the place. This place is very recommended for first time campers who wants to know what it's like to rough it out in the outdoors, as there's always an exit strategy if you feel that the wild is not for you. 'Coz there are communal shelter-areas that can protect you from a leaking tent and (for those who can pay more) chalets for rent for about RM 60 - RM 100 per night for a small family. What one family did was, they rented a chalet, and they pitched a tent right outside their chalet, nearer to the river. I believe the tent was meant for the kids to experience the outdoors, while the parents can relax in the chalet.


Spotted many species of butterflies and birds (spiderhunters, bulbuls, sunbirds, monarch and jungle pigeons).
The very exhausting but satisfying day ended at about 3pm. Definitely worth going again.

Sunday, June 6, 2010

My Garden Bird Watch 2010

Held on the 5th and 6th of June this year, many bird enthusiasts participated on a voluntarily basis to do a 30-minute count or 'banci' on number of birds found at our own neighbourhood/garden/backyard etc......

A survey will be carried out to tally the numbers. This is to better understand these species of birds and see where they strive and also for conservation purposes (whether there's a dramatic change/decline in the numbers) .

Results will be released in July at http://www.mygardenbirdwatch.com/index.php

Survey date: 6th June 2010
Time: 5.20 pm - 5:50 pm (only 30 mins)
Location: Jalan 21/62B, Bandar Menjalara (balcony)
Country: Malaysia
Photographs courtesy of David Chan

My results:

Eurasian Tree Sparrow, Ciak Rumah (total - 3)


Asian Glossy Starling, Perling Mata Merah (total - 3)

Oriental Magpie Robin, Murai Kampung (total - 1)


Zebra dove, Merbuk (Total - 1)


House crow, Gagak Rumah (Total - 1)


Olive-backed sunbird, Kelicap Bukit (total - 2, male and female)


Yellow-vented bulbul, Merbah Kapur (total - 2)


Brown-throated sunbird (total - 1)

Rock pigeon, Merpati (total - 4)

Saturday, June 5, 2010

Visiting Oz

It has been almost six years since my last visit to Melbourne. This time I was there as part of my company team building trip.

We checked in at LCCT (flying Airasia) on the 28th May with our tour agent Nicole who handed out our bag tags and assigned us to our room buddy. The flight was about 8 hours long and Melbourne is two hours ahead of Malaysia (GMT + 10). With nothing much to do on the plane and the unwillingness to pay RM 30 for the entertainment system on-board, we resorted to playing "black jack" to kill time. When we finally arrived at the airport, it was already midnight. We headed straight to our hotel, Grand Mercure at Chinatown and called it a night.



The following day, our tour started with a visit to Bellarat, which is about an hour's drive from Melbourne. Bellarat was a famous mining town back in the 1850's. Now, they have the replica of what Bellarat used to be back in the olden days. Some of my friends tried their hands at finding gold using the conventional method. You can still find specks of gold (and even a nugget or two if you are very lucky) and get to keep them as souvenirs.

Night activity: Crown casino (gamble)

The second day, we rose early and headed to Yarra Valley, famous for it numerous wineries, and Chandon, being one of the more prestigious. We sampled different wines at the Green Point Room and took plenty of pictures of the panoramic scenery.

Since many of us have not tried a red sparkling wine before (unique only to Australia), we might as well buy a bottle for loved ones back home.



Pic above: the grass does look greener over there! Shot taken at Yarra Valley


For lunch, we went to the famous Cuckoo restaurant serving mainly German cuisine, buffet style.

After lunch, we took the Puffing Billy train ride from Belgrave to Menzie's Creek before continuing on with our journey to Phillip Island. Phillip Island is famous for its beautiful beaches and during summer time, many locals and visitors come here for surfing, swimming or merely enjoy basking under the sun. However, come winter, many visitors flock to the island to see the smallest species of penguin in the world, the fairy penguins. These penguins often go out to sea in search of food and come back to shore where their nesting burrows are located in the evenings.

We waited patiently under the strong chilly winter wind for about 20 minutes at the shore line before a school of penguins started to show. We were amused to see these little beings lining up and walking up to their respective burrows. What a sight! too bad we are not allowed to photograph them for fear of damaging the sensitive eyes of these birds by the powerful flashes from our cameras. Well, some things are meant to be enjoyed with our very own eyes and the memory stored only in our brains.

Pic above: Loch Ard

On the 3rd day, we woke up early for our long drive to The Twelve Apostles and Loch Ard. To get to these two places which are located at Port Campbell National Park, we have to drive along the Great Ocean Road for almost 4 - 5 hours (depending on whether you got stop midway or not for toilet breaks). By this time, many of us were already feeling restless from the long drive and couldn't wait to get off the bus.

The gorge is named after the ship, Loch Ard , which was shipwrecked nearby Muttonbird Island on 1 June 1878, approaching the end of a three-month journey from England to Melbourne. Of the the fifty-one passengers and crew, only two survived: Tom Pearce and Eva Carmichael, both of whom were 18 - 19 years of age. According to memorials at the site, Pearce and Carmichael were washed ashore and sought shelter at the gorge before climbing up the gorge to seek help the following morning.



A few kilometers from the gorge are The Twelve Apostles, or rather eight as the remaining four had collapsed some time ago.

It was a beautiful sight and plenty of photo-taking opportunities.

By the time we reached back to Melbourne, we were so tired that many of us went straight to bed.

The last day was the most relaxing and to some, most enjoyable as we get to shop and shop and shop.

First stop was the Queen Victoria's Market.

This is the place where you can get fresh vegetables and fruits, fish and seafood, cheese and ham, chocolates and lollies, soft fluffy toys and wines, all under one big roof.

A 10-minute walk will take you to Central Melbourne shopping district where you can find departmental stores such as Myers, David Jones and Target (Bourke Street). I always love to visit their supermarkets such as Coles and Woolsworth.

In Australia, don't just try mass market beers/cocktails such as VB and Cascade. Opt for smaller brand names such as Fat Yak and Lemon Ruski (I could only find it at Dan Murphy's) .........they are goooood..too bad they don't have it here in Malaysia.

After lunch, some of us opted for the half-day city tour while a majority of the BiO-LiFE staff continued on with more shopping. International brands such as Coach and Burberry at 20% to 50% discounts was enough to send the whole entourage flocking to the outlets and maxing out on their credit cards (I can actually see the happy smiley faces of the sales personnel at these stores, whom will be earning fat commissions for that day) .

As for the rest of us who are not easily swayed.......city tour here we come........








The city tour took us around Melbourne city, visiting St. Patrick's Cathedral, Captain Cook's cottage, Botanical Garden and The Shrine of Remembrance, built as a tribute to soldiers who have lost their lives fighting during WW1 and WW2. We also took the free City Circle Tram ride around Melbourne city, passing the parliament house, old treasury building and the Federation Square. That was fun!


Pic above: This conservatory changes themes all the time...this time is tropical!

Pic above: My friends and I @ Shrine of Remembrance

Night life in Melbourne can be boring as everything seems to close at 6 pm. So, night activity for tourists: Crown Casino (gambling again). However, we were lucky that David Jones closed at 10 pm on the 1st June for their mid year sales.......so we had some time to do last-minute damage to our wallets.


All in all, great fun with great friends.........